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«Reference Guide Clothing, Textile, and Dress Sources at Hocken Collections ‘DIC Style Card’. Hocken Ephemera collection. DIC-1930-31. Hocken ...»

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Reference Guide

Clothing, Textile, and Dress

Sources at

Hocken Collections

‘DIC Style Card’. Hocken Ephemera collection. DIC-1930-31.

Hocken Collections/Te Uare Taoka o Hākena,

University of Otago Library

Nau Mai Haere Mai ki Te Uare Taoka o Hākena:

Welcome to the Hocken Collections

He mihi nui tēnei ki a koutou

kā uri o kā hau e whā arā, kā mātāwaka o te motu, o te ao whānui hoki.

Nau mai, haere mai ki te taumata.

As you arrive We seek to preserve all the taoka we hold for future generations. So that all taoka are

properly protected, we ask that you:

 place your bags (including computer bags and sleeves) in the lockers provided  leave all food and drink including water bottles in the lockers (we have a lunchroom off the foyer which everyone is welcome to use)  bring any materials you need for research and some ID in with you  sign the Readers’ Register each day  enquire at the reference desk first if you wish to take digital photographs Beginning your research This guide gives examples of the types of material relating to New Zealand clothing, textiles, and dress held at the Hocken. All items must be used within the library. As the collection is large and constantly growing not every item is listed here, but you can search for other

material on our Online Public Access Catalogues:

 for books, theses, journals, magazines, newspapers, maps, and audiovisual material, use Library Search|Ketu. The advanced search http://otago.hosted.exlibrisgroup.com/primo_library/libweb/action/search.do?mode=Ad vanced&vid=DUNEDIN gives you several search options, and you can refine your results to the Hocken Library on the left side of the screen.

The Library Search Guide http://otago.libguides.com/LibrarySearch contains helpful tips and assistance for using Library Search|Ketu;

 for pictures, photographs and archives and manuscripts, use Hākena http://hakena.otago.ac.nz The Hākena Search Help Guide http://otago.libguides.com/hakena contains helpful tips and assistance for using Hākena;

 some of the photographs from the Pictorial Collections are available for viewing online via Hocken Snapshop at http://hockensnapshop.ac.nz/. Some other photographs and artworks can be viewed at http://otago.ourheritage.ac.nz/.

If you have any enquiries about ordering or other research questions please ask the reference desk staff – they will be happy to assist you.

Contents General ………………………………………………………………………………. 5 Textiles and fabrics …………………………………………………………………. 8 Apparel and haberdashery retailers …………………………………………….. 10 Tailors and tailoring ………………………………………………………………. 14 Clothing, dress and fashion ………………………………………………………. 16 Advertising ………………………………………………………………………… 18 Handcrafts and patterns ………………………………………………………….. 19 Textile and fabric examples ………………………………………………………. 22 Pictorial Collections ……………………………………………………………….. 23 Other institutions ………………………………………………………………….. 25 Websites ……………………………………………………………………………. 26 General Hocken Collections’ holding of local clothing, textile and dress sources is extensive, with resources in Archives, Publications, Pictures, and Ephemera collections. These sources cover various aspects of the garment trade including merchandise, fashion design, and educational records.

Publications Try a browse “by subject” search on Library Search|Ketu using the following subject


 Clothing Trade-- New Zealand  Fashion -- New Zealand  Fashion --New Zealand -- History  Maori (New Zealand people) -- Clothing

Some general sources that are good starting points include:

Doris DePont (2012). Black: the history of black in fashion, society and culture in New Zealand. Auckland, N.Z.: Penguin.

Eve Ebbett (1977). In true colonial fashion: a lively look at what New Zealanders wore.

–  –  –

Bronwyn Labrum, Fiona McKergow, and Stephanie Gibson (2007). Looking flash:

clothing in Aotearoa New Zealand. Auckland, N.Z.: Auckland University Press.

Angela Lassig (2010). New Zealand fashion design. Wellington, N.Z.: Te Papa Press.

Sidney M. Mead (1969). Traditional Maori clothing: A study of technological and functional change. Wellington, N.Z.: Reed.

Directories. Hocken Collections holds a large collection of historic directories, some of which are relevant to the clothing, textiles, and apparel industries. These are available

through a keyword search for “trade directories” on Library Search|Ketu. These include:

Apparel Trade Directory. (1991 -). Auckland, N.Z.: Apparel Publishing.

The Wises’ New Zealand Post Office Directory, and the Stones’ Otago and Southland Directory include trade sections for locating early clothing textiles and dress retailers and manufacturers. The UBD contact directory: business contact details for all New Zealand contains recent information on these retailers and manufacturers.

Newspapers and Periodicals We also have a large collection of New Zealand newspapers and periodicals. Significant

titles that relate to clothing, dress and textiles include:

Australian and New Zealand apparel: the business of fashion (2003-2008)

–  –  –

Fashion New Zealand quarterly (1986-1987, some gaps), and later titles: Fashion Quarterly (1988-1992, some gaps); New Zealand Fashion quarterly (1993-, some gaps).

New Zealand textile journal (1967-1970) Vogue New Zealand (1958-1968, some gaps)

To locate further titles, try a browse “by subject” search on Library Search|Ketu for:

 Clothing Trade -- New Zealand – Periodicals  Fashion -- New Zealand – Periodicals To search for specific articles in New Zealand journals on clothing, dress, and textiles try a keyword search on the database Index New Zealand http://innz.natlib.govt.nz/. Try searching under the name of a local designer, or manufacturer eg. Tanya Carlson, or Hallensteins. To locate articles about clothing, dress and textiles in Dunedin, try using the advanced search, with ‘Dunedin’ as the keyword, and ‘clothing’ or ‘dress’ or ‘textiles’ as the

subject. Alternately, try these subject headings:

–  –  –

Check Library Search|Ketu to see if Hocken Collections holds the journal referred to.

Newspapers often contain articles to clothing, dress and textiles, and earlier publications can provide a wealth of information through apparel and fashion advertisements. As with journal articles, some newspaper articles can be located through an Index New Zealand search. Newspaper advertisements relating to localised clothing and textile retailers or manufacturers can be located through searching local newspapers via PapersPast http://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/cgi-bin/paperspast, using the advertisements refinement under “more search options”. Also, try the pictorial sections of the Otago Witness, New Zealand Weekly News, and the New Zealand Free Lance for images of clothing and dress depicted in portraits and images of everyday life. Hocken Collections hold a large number of national and local newspapers in print version and on microfilm that can be viewed in our Reference area.

Library Subject Guides Otago University Library has a number of research guides available online to help locate relevant sources. The Clothing and Textile Sciences guide, located here http://otago.libguides.com/clothingandtextiles, provides information on new materials available throughout the library system, as well as national, and international, sources of relevance for clothing, textiles, and dress.

Textiles and Fabrics Archives Hocken’s archives and manuscripts have a number of collections relating to clothing, dress and textiles. Try a simple search in Hākena, the pictures, photographs,

archives and manuscripts catalogue, using the keywords:

–  –  –

 Leather industry and trade  Manufacturing industries  Wool trade and industry

The archives collection includes the following textile and fabric-related records:

Blackman, Margery: Papers (1959-2007) (ARC-0328) Margery Blackman is a Dunedin weaver and textiles expert, and was on the executive of the Crafts Council of New Zealand. The Blackman collection includes catalogues, reports, committee papers, and guides.

J.K. Mooney and Company Limited: Records (c.1895-1997) (ARC-0617) J.K. Mooney and Company was a Dunedin-based firm of wool and fur skin processors and exporters. The company was established in 1912 by James Kennedy Mooney and George Stewart, who became sole manager when Mooney left the partnership in 1913. In 1923, George Stewart founded Mooneys to make and sell fur garments locally, and Fur Dressers and Dyers (1927) to process local and imported furs. Branches were eventually set up in Auckland, Wellington, and other centres. By 1979, the J.K. Mooney business had practically ceased. Both Mooneys Furriers and Fur Dressers and Dyers continued to operate. The J.K. Mooney and Company records include minute books, correspondence, articles, journals, financial records,

–  –  –

Mosgiel Limited: Records (1880-1970) (83- 135); Mosgiel Limited: Records (1956Alliance Textiles (NZ) Limited: Further records (1871 - 1996) (MSThe Mosgiel Woollen Company and mills were established in 1871 by Arthur John Burns, and were pioneers of the local woollen industry. The woollen mills were initially established privately by Burns, though became a company two years later, after joining forces with Mr Smail. Many sorts of woollen goods were manufactured by the company, including tweeds, flannels, blankets, rugs and hosiery. Mosgiel Woollen Company became Mosgiel Limited in 1975, and Alliance Textiles (NZ) Limited took over Mosgiel Limited in 1980.The collections include photographs, exhibition certificates, day books, production books, staffing records, and film. Other related collections are available.

There are files relating to textiles in the collections of the Donaghy’s Industries Limited (ARC-0042), Otago Girls’ High School Records (ARC-0056), The Glendermid Limited Tannery records (90-095), the Avis Bowbyes Papers (ARC-0335), and the University of Otago, Department of Food Science, Clothing and Textile Sciences Records (ARC-0755).


Try a subject search on Library Search|Ketu using:

 Textiles Industry -- New Zealand  Manufacturers -- New Zealand--Statistics

–  –  –

and refine it to our holdings using the “Hocken Library” facet on the left hand bar on the

screen. Publications relating to textiles held at Hocken Collections include:

S.R.H. Jones (2010). Doing well and doing good: Ross & Glendining, Scottish enterprise in New Zealand. Dunedin, N.Z.: Otago University Press.

Gavin McLean and Alliance Textiles (1981). Spinning yarns: a centennial history of Alliance Textiles and its predecessors, 1881-1981. Dunedin, N.Z.: Alliance Textiles.

New Zealand textile journal (1971-1983). Auckland, N.Z.: Marker Press.

Samuel James McCay (1952). Phorium tenax in New Zealand history: Thesis presented for the degree of M.A. in history, University of New Zealand. Dunedin, N.Z.: University of

–  –  –

Margaret Potter (2004). Flax mills of the South. Invercargill, N.Z.: M. Trotter.

Evan James Tosh (2005). Furs to Furriers in Dunedin, New Zealand, to 1940: a thesis submitted for the degree of Master of Consumer and Applied Science at the University of Otago, Dunedin, New Zealand. Dunedin, N.Z.: University of Otago.

Cheryl Anne Wilson, Raechel M. Laing; Textile Institute (Manchester, England). New Zealand Section, Textile Institute (Australia), and University of Otago (2009). Natural Fibres in Australasia: Combined (N.Z. and Aus) conference of The Textile Institute, 15-17 April 2009, University of Otago, Dunedin. Dunedin, N.Z.: Textile Institute NZ.

Apparel and Haberdashery Archives For archives relating to particular apparel and haberdashery companies, search under the

company name on Hākena, or try a subject search under:

 Apparel and haberdashery

–  –  –

Holdings include:

Brown Ewing and Company Limited: Records (1901-1959) (MS-1522) (also includes A. & T. Inglis Limited: Records) Brown Ewing and Company Limited, General Drapers and Men's Outfitters, was established in Dunedin in 1866. A. & T. Inglis Limited, also Dunedin drapers, were established around 1863, and in 1920 took over the drapers' firm Mollisons Limited.

In 1957 A. & T. Inglis went into liquidation and were taken over by Brown Ewing and Company Limited, who closed their Princes Street store and moved into the A.

& T. Inglis buildings in George Street. Brown Ewing's was taken over by Hay's of Christchurch in 1960. The Brown Ewing and Company records include share transfers, correspondence, wage sheets, deposit books, while the A. & T. Inglis records include sharebooks, journals, and declarations of trust.

D.S.A. Limited : Records (1890 - 1966) (MS- 0981) The D.S.A. (Drapery Supply Association) opened on 22 March, 1890, and was a significant local drapery and clothing store, located where the current ‘Harvest Court’ shopping arcade is. Hocken Collections holds a D.S.A. cashbook, stockbook, letters, photographs, and various papers.

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